Hot Tub Land

Hot Tub University Showdown

Thu, 22 May 2025 20:30:16 GMT

How Do Our Spas Stack Up? Let’s Compare with Hot Tub University’s Guide

At Factory Direct Hot Tubs Canada, we know we build top-of-the-line spas—but don’t just take our word for it. Let’s compare our spas using Chris Wheatley’s trusted Buyer’s Guide .

Chris is a longtime hot tub dealer turned educator who now runs Hot Tub University , a popular resource covering everything from spa selection to troubleshooting. Over the years, he’s become a respected voice in the industry—thanks to his thorough, consistent, and science-based approach. While his delivery can be a little rough around the edges, it’s that no-nonsense style that’s earned him a loyal following.

His Buyer’s Guide has become a gold standard for hot tub shoppers, which is exactly why we’re using it to benchmark our spas. One day he may visit the factory himself—but until then, this breakdown is the next best thing.

Chris’s top five buying criteria are:

Dealer
Shell Construction
Parts
Plumbing
Insulation

1. Dealer

Let’s address this one head-on. As a factory-direct brand, we rely on a network of experienced service techs and quick-response phone support instead of traditional dealerships.

So, what does Chris look for in a good dealer? Someone experienced, knowledgeable, and able to provide fast, reliable service—even on brands they didn’t sell. With over a decade in the industry, plus the expertise of our partnered techs, we know our spas inside and out. And with a comprehensive warranty, instant support, and local technicians, your service experience feels local where it counts.

It’s worth noting: Chris was a dealer himself, so he may place extra emphasis on the dealer model. But traditional dealers are in business to make money—and rising costs in recent years reflect that. With overhead and staff to pay, it’s not uncommon to see premium spas priced at $20,000, $25,000, or even $30,000.

Now, if that premium is attached to a brand that truly checks every box, it might be worth it to some buyers. But stick with us—and see if those brands are really offering that much more.

2. Shell Construction

This is the backbone of your spa—and we’re fully aligned with Chris here. A self-supporting shell with multiple fiberglass layers and a vinyl ester resin is essential.

That’s exactly what we use: Aristech acrylic, backed by multiple fiberglass layers and a vinyl ester layer for added strength. We even go one step further with an additional resin coat for extra osmotic protection. No props or cradles—just structural integrity from the ground up.

3. Parts

Chris insists on non-proprietary parts from major brands that are easy to replace and widely available. We couldn’t agree more.

That’s why we use Balboa equipment—an industry leader and Chris’s top recommendation. Using a widely trusted brand means easy access to parts and no dependency on the original seller for service or repairs.

4. Plumbing

Great plumbing means even jet pressure and reliable construction—and Chris looks for manifold-style plumbing with glued and clamped lines.

We check those boxes and more. Our spas feature smooth, crimp-free lines to reduce back pressure and improve flow. We also use robust ball valves (not knife gates) for easier servicing—whether done by you or a technician.

5. Insulation

Hot Tub University is spot-on about insulation: R-value matters. Thin mylar sheeting (R-1) and perimeter setups (R15–R18) simply can’t compete with full-foam systems rated R25–R30.

We’ve gone further. Our five-part insulation system combines multiple insulation types to achieve a total R-value of 25 or more , rivaling full-foam performance while improving accessibility for future service.

Conclusion

On the four key build-quality points— Shell, Parts, Plumbing, and Insulation —we meet or exceed the standards set by Hot Tub University.

That leaves the dealer premium. Chris says, “Spend the money, spend the money, spend the money.” But what exactly are you spending it on?

If a spa is already built right, how much more are you willing to pay just for the dealer experience? When our spas start under $10,000—and top out around $15,000—do you really need to spend double that?

That’s up to you.

To learn more about our quality standards and what sets us apart, check out our Home page.

Is Hot Water Just a Bunch of Hot Air?

Tue, 22 Apr 2025 22:35:22 GMT

How to Unlock the Real Recovery Power of Your Hot Tub

Hot tubs have long been hailed as a luxury, but more and more people are investing in them for health reasons—especially to ease muscle pain and accelerate recovery. If you're one of those folks who got a spa hoping it would relieve sore muscles, only to find the benefits short-lived, you're not alone.

The good news? The spa can help—but only if it’s part of a bigger strategy.

Let’s break it down.

Why We Hurt in the First Place

Most muscle pain isn’t from a dramatic injury—it’s the result of something much sneakier: chronically shortened muscles .

Our modern lives are filled with repetitive, static postures. Think: sitting at a desk, looking at a phone, driving, and even standing still for long hours. Over time, these patterns pull our bodies out of alignment. Muscles adapt by shortening, and eventually, those tight, inflexible muscles start tugging on bones and joints in unnatural ways. This leads to tension, inflammation, and yes—persistent pain.

Massage can help. Pain meds can mask it. And a hot soak? It feels amazing. But if the underlying muscle tension isn’t released and rebalanced, the pain always creeps back in.

What a Hot Tub Can Do

Let’s give credit where it’s due: hot water works wonders.

Here’s what happens when you sink into your spa:

Heat softens tissue. Warm water increases circulation, allowing blood rich in oxygen and nutrients to reach sore, tight muscles.
Buoyancy reduces load. Being in water offloads pressure from your joints and spine, giving those overworked areas a much-needed break.
Nervous system relaxes. The combination of heat, comfort, and hydrotherapy jets helps calm the sympathetic nervous system (your “fight or flight” response), easing mental and physical tension.

The result? You feel looser, lighter, and pain-free… temporarily.

But here’s the catch: when you hop out of the tub and go right back to the same movement patterns—sitting, slouching, stressing—the tightness returns. And the cycle continues.

The Missing Link: Stretching

Here’s the truth: a hot tub isn’t a cure—it’s a catalyst.
It gives you the perfect window of opportunity to create lasting change. And that change comes from stretching.

Now, we’re not talking about touching your toes a few times and calling it a day. To truly reverse years of tension, you’ll need a dedicated approach—something that restores full, natural ranges of motion and gradually lengthens those shortened muscles.

This can take time. Some programs suggest up to 20 hours of stretching to unlock chronically frozen muscles . That sounds intense, but when you weigh it against a lifetime of stiffness, soreness, and limited mobility? It’s a worthwhile investment.

And if you're already using your hot tub regularly—you’ve got a massive head start.

Hot Tub + Stretch = Game Changer

Here’s the move: while you're soaking in that gloriously warm water, add some light static stretching . This could be as simple as:

Gently pulling one knee to your chest
Reaching overhead and to the side
Stretching your calves on the spa step
Twisting through your torso while holding onto the edge of the tub

After your soak, while your muscles are still warm and pliable, do a few more stretches on dry land. This compounds the gains and helps “lock in” the improved mobility.

You don’t need to be a yoga expert. You just need to be consistent.

Want a Framework? Try This.

If you’re looking for a serious, no-nonsense program to follow, Joe Hippensteel’s Ultimate Performance system is one of the best out there. It’s designed for long-term mobility restoration and has helped everyone from Navy SEALs to pro athletes reclaim pain-free movement.

That said, you don’t need a perfect plan to start seeing progress. Any gentle, consistent stretching habit—especially when paired with hot water—will help break the pain cycle and restore balance to your body.

Final Thoughts: It’s Not Magic. It’s Science.

Hot tubs can do a lot for your recovery—but they’re not miracle machines. Think of them as your secret weapon—a shortcut to relaxation and the perfect environment for healing. But to truly reclaim your mobility, it takes intention, consistency, and a little bit of stretching.

So next time you slide into that spa, don’t just soak. Stretch.
Your future, pain-free self will thank you.

Want help picking a spa that actually supports your health goals? Reach out—we’re happy to guide you toward models that fit your lifestyle and maximize your recovery.

Testing For Ozone

Wed, 16 Apr 2025 16:38:45 GMT

Is Your Ozonator Actually On?

With the rise in popularity of ozone sanitation systems, savvy hot tub owners are starting to ask a reasonable question: “How do I know if it’s working?”

Ozone systems are often marketed as a way to reduce chemical use while keeping water fresh and clear. But unless you're relying entirely on traditional chlorine or bromine, you'll eventually wonder how to verify the ozonator is actually doing its job.

Ozone as an Oxidizer vs. Sanitizer

Most hot tub owners use ozone as an oxidizer, not a primary sanitizer. That means keeping a small, consistent amount of chlorine or bromine in the water—just enough to keep pathogens in check—while letting ozone take over the heavy lifting of breaking down organic contaminants.

Think of it this way: the sanitizer (chlorine or bromine) kills bacteria directly. The ozonator doesn’t—it breaks down the organic “food” that bacteria feed on, interrupting their life cycle. By pairing ozone with a light residual sanitizer, you can often reduce your chlorine levels from the typical 3–5 ppm down to as little as 2 ppm, without compromising cleanliness.

But what if you want to go fully ozone-based?

Can You Trust the Bubbles?

It’s tempting to assume that as long as there are bubbles in the footwell, everything’s fine. But that’s not always the case. While the presence of bubbles indicates the system is producing something, it doesn’t tell you whether ozone levels are reaching concentrations high enough to sanitize.

And although the specs—like ozone output (mg/hr) and water volume—can suggest that sanitation is possible, they don't guarantee consistent performance over time. Regular testing, even if infrequent, helps ensure your system is meeting your expectations, especially if you're minimizing or eliminating chemical sanitizers.

Three Ways to Test Ozone Levels

1. Ozone Test Strips

For most home users, this is the go-to method. Ozone test strips work just like standard hot tub test strips: dip, wait, compare. They’re inexpensive, widely available, and simple to use. Since ozone is continuously produced during system operation, you don’t need to test often—just periodically to confirm everything’s on track.

The downside? Accuracy. Strips provide a ballpark range rather than a precise reading. But for general peace of mind, they do the trick.

2. ORP Testing (Oxidation-Reduction Potential)

If you want real numbers, ORP testing steps it up. An ORP sensor measures how reactive your water is—essentially determining whether the water environment is capable of killing pathogens. The higher the ORP, the more effective your sanitizer system (ozone included).

This is particularly useful for hot tubs running both ozone and a small dose of chlorine or bromine. ORP doesn’t differentiate between the two—it just tells you how “active” your water is in breaking down contaminants. That makes it a favorite among service technicians and data-loving spa owners alike.

But remember: ORP shows potential—it doesn't test for actual contaminants. For that, you’ll need something more direct.

3. ATP Testing: The Gold Standard

ATP (Adenosine Triphosphate) testing skips the proxies and measures biological contamination directly. Rather than checking for the presence of sanitizer, ATP testing looks for the presence of life—bacteria, viruses, and other microorganisms common in spa water.

It’s especially helpful when dealing with unexplained skin rashes or recurring water quality issues. ATP tests can detect whether organisms like Legionella pneumophila (responsible for Legionnaires' disease) are present—information you won’t get from a chlorine or ORP test.

That said, ATP testing equipment is expensive and usually reserved for dealers, health departments, or serious troubleshooting. It’s not something most homeowners need in their toolkit, but it's worth knowing about if you ever need to escalate a sanitation issue.

When Is Testing Worth It?

If you’ve been running a low-chemical or “natural” spa system for years without problems, you might wonder if all this is overkill. And in many cases, it might be. The goal here isn’t to alarm or overcomplicate your maintenance routine—but to equip you with the facts.

Because when you’re paying for a water quality service or troubleshooting a problem, you deserve more than a quick paper strip test you could’ve done yourself.

If a dealer or tech tells you your water is “fine,” you now have the tools—and terminology—to ask why. And if they can’t explain it clearly or provide a valid testing method, that’s your cue to ask for better.

Final Thought

Your spa’s cleanliness isn’t a bonus feature—it’s the baseline. Whether you’re enjoying a chlorine-free soak or dialing in a hybrid system, it pays to understand how your ozonator fits into the equation—and how to tell if it’s truly pulling its weight.

Making Sense of the Dollars

Wed, 26 Feb 2025 06:30:57 GMT

How Much Will a Hot Tub Cost to Operate?

What will this add to my power bill?

It’s a fair question. And it’s usually brushed off.

You’ll hear that it depends on factors like usage and outside temperature—which is true, but doesn’t answer the question. Or you’ll get the often-cited "dollar a day." But what does that really mean?

Let’s cut through the noise. I’ll show you exactly how to calculate the operational costs of any hot tub.

Quick and Dirty Estimates for the Time-Conscious

If you want to skip the physics and get a fast tool to sort spas by efficiency, here you go:

Take the numbers in front of all the equipment and add them up. Two 5hp pumps and a 4kW heater? 14. A single 2hp pump and a 1kW heater? That’s a 3. This isn’t a direct proportion, but a ranking system—higher numbers mean higher power draw over time.
Since a spa isn’t always running at max power, this gives a general efficiency guide rather than an exact cost.
Want to factor in insulation? Reduce the number by 25% for spas with exceptionally good insulation. But remember—insulation is about R-value, not marketing gimmicks.
In a study of 12 popular spas, 8 out of 10 had nearly identical heater cycles, meaning insulation differences often don’t impact cost as much as you’d think.

In-Depth Estimates

For those who want precision down to the dollar, here’s how to break it down.

Your monthly cost is based on local power rates and kWh usage , which we’ll divide into three categories:

Heating – The biggest factor
Filtration – Keeping it clean
Usage – Actually enjoying the thing

Heating: Putting the "Hot" in Hot Tub

Hot tubs use flow-through heaters. When the water drops by about a degree, the low-speed pump kicks on. How long it takes to heat up depends on the heat transfer formula .

For example, a 300-gallon spa with a 5.5kW heater operating at 90% efficiency takes about 20 minutes (0.33 hours) to increase by 1°C.

A 1hp pump draws 0.75kW , meaning each heating cycle uses:

(5.5kW heater + 0.75kW pump) x 0.33 hours = 2.06kWh per cycle.

How many cycles per day? That’s where outside temperature and insulation come into play. Since Newton's Law of Cooling requires an experimental value for k as a representation of insulation we will differ to experimental data on the number of heating cycles one can expect.

According to research by an Alberta based research group on 12 popular spas:

Winter: Average = 6 cycles , Best case = 3 , Worst = 12
Summer: 1 to 2 cycles

Filtration: Keeping It Clean

A typical filtration cycle runs 4 to 6 hours per day . For our example spa, we’ll assume 4 hours .

A 0.75kW low-speed pump running for 4 hours uses 3kWh per day —sometimes as much as the heater.

Usage: Actually Enjoying the Thing

Now, the fun part. Let’s assume:

You use the spa 3 times a week (or 0.14 hours per day on average)
The first 5hp pump is on for half that time for primary jets
The second 5hp pump is on for a quarter of that time for other jets like foot jets
The rest of the time, you’re just soaking

Since 5hp = 3.73kW , the usage breakdown is:

Pump 1: 3.73kW x 0.07 hours = 0.26kWh
Pump 2: 3.73kW x 0.035 hours = 0.13kWh
Total daily usage: 0.39kWh

Summing Up: What’s the Damage?

Let’s use a conservative 4 heating cycles per day :

Heating: 4 cycles x 2.06kWh = 8.24kWh
Filtration: 3kWh
Usage: 0.39kWh
Total daily cost: 11.63kWh

At $0.12 per kWh (Edmonton rates) :

Daily cost: $1.39
Monthly cost: $42.48

Following this method, you can compare the costs of any spa in any conditions with real numbers .

For the Lazy Anoraks

Want the exact estimating tool shown in my video? Comment below, and I’ll send you the spreadsheet so you can plug in your spa’s specs.

No more guessing. Now you know exactly what your hot tub will cost you.

Plug-and-Play or No Way?

Wed, 26 Feb 2025 03:37:51 GMT

110V vs. 220V – Which One Actually Makes Sense?

The pumps are small. The heater is weak. Running the jets? Goodbye, heater!

I can already hear the hot tub gurus grumbling. If you’ve ever shopped for a spa, you may have heard these lines before. It seems like the only option is to fork out $1,500 - $2,000 to get 220V. If you don’t want a $100/month power bill, that is.

Let’s take these claims one at a time.

Small Pumps?

Let’s dispel a few myths right away. How big are your pumps? That depends on whether you mean brake horsepower (BHP) or continuous horsepower (CHP). BHP is the peak power before inefficiencies lower it. CHP is the actual operational power.

The three most popular pump brands are Gecko, Balboa, and LX. If you want to see their true horsepower ratings, check these out:

The biggest pumps available are 5 HP for 220V spas and 1.5 HP for 110V spas . But before we get lost in the numbers, consider this: The best massage isn’t necessarily the most aggressive or highest pressure. If you’ve ever had the “pleasure” of an overzealous masseuse, you know that more force isn’t always better.

Hot tub specialists have long known that lower pressure is often more effective for relaxation. Big pumps aren’t designed to blast the skin off your back; they’re there to power a greater number of larger jets. An 8-person tub with 40+ large-diameter jets would barely function without large pumps. That’s why larger tubs use two or three pumps.

So let’s compare a small spa with 21, 3/8" jets powered by a 1.5 HP pump against a large spa with 36, 3/4" jets powered by two 5 HP pumps . To simplify, we’ll analyze one 5 HP pump powering 18 jets in the larger spa.

Using Bernoulli's Equation and accounting for negligible height differences, we find that smaller nozzles compensate for the smaller pump, delivering up to twice the pressure of the 220V setup .

If you want the highest pressure massage , a 110V spa is the way to go. If you prefer a low-pressure, full-body experience , look for a 220V or a 110V with adjustable jets or diverters .

220V Setup Costs More

220V setup cost: $1,500 - $2,000
110V setup cost: No extra setup required

Winter Performance – Negligible Difference

It’s often claimed that 110V spas struggle in the winter. The truth? The difference is negligible . Good insulation matters far more than voltage.

Jet Pressure – 110V Wins for Power

110V delivers higher pressure due to smaller nozzles.
220V excels at high flow for gentle, full-body therapy.
Expensive high-end spas deliberately design for lower flow, higher volume massage.

Heat-Up Time – Longer but Efficient

110V takes longer to heat up , but its lower power draw means total energy use is similar.
220V heats faster , but you’re still paying for the same amount of energy.

Running Costs – Marginal Differences

A common misconception is that 220V costs less to run . In reality, for the same spa, 110V is often marginally more efficient . Always check the specific model's insulation and heating efficiency rather than assuming voltage dictates cost.

Final Verdict

The real value of 220V comes from serving multiple bathers at once . If you need a spa for large groups, 220V makes sense. But if you’re using your spa for solo or couple relaxation , a well-insulated 110V spa delivers just as much comfort at a lower upfront cost . In the end, the biggest factor affecting your power bill is insulation , not voltage.

So, does a plug-and-play hot tub really work?

Absolutely. If you choose the right one.

Process is not the Product

Tue, 04 Feb 2025 21:13:51 GMT

Competitor Comparison : Ecospas vs Dreammaker

Let’s get ready to rumble!

Turn on your jets and get the bubbles blowing. At trade shows, we often get asked who our biggest competitor is. I always say that we have no competition—only people selling similar products. This usually gets a chuckle, but it’s sincere.

The materials and design of the EcoSpa are so unique that there are really no direct competitors. Industry pundits and well-informed hot tubbers may recall many seemingly similar products and say, “Roto-molds have been around forever!” or “We have those too!” Some even claim, “We don’t sell them because those are cheap substitutes for real hot tubs.”

While it’s true that rotational molding has been around for a long time (EcoSpa’s parent company was founded in 1959, after all), and many acrylic dealers bring in cheap plastic tubs to fill out their product lines, EcoSpas are completely different.

To show that this is more than just bluster, but verifiable fact, we’re doing a direct head-to-head comparison of the DreamMaker 730L and the EcoSpa E6 .

Head-to-Head Comparison: EcoSpa E6 vs. DreamMaker 730L

1. Shell & Build Quality (Most Relevant for Durability-Focused Buyers)

EcoSpa E6: High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) – Extremely strong, impact-resistant, and long-lasting.
DreamMaker 730L: Syncrylic™ (Polyethylene/Acrylic Blend) – Durable, but not as tough as HDPE.
✅ Advantage: EcoSpa E6 (Stronger material means better durability and longevity.)

2. Weight & Structural Integrity (Relevant for Longevity & Strength)

EcoSpa E6: 582 lbs
DreamMaker 730L: 436 lbs
✅ Advantage: EcoSpa E6 (Heavier spas usually indicate a denser, more reinforced structure.)

3. Insulation & Energy Efficiency (Highly Relevant for Cost-Conscious Buyers)

EcoSpa E6: Patented EcoBatt Insulation (Full cavity insulation with a slightly higher R-value, removable for service.)
DreamMaker 730L: Foam Barrier Insulation + Soft Cover (Good insulation, but may not retain heat as well.)
✅ Advantage: EcoSpa E6 (Better insulation reduces heating costs, which is a major selling point.)

4. Cover & Protection (Important for Maintenance & Durability)

EcoSpa E6: Hard Cover Standard (Built-in, durable, and weather-resistant.)
DreamMaker 730L: Soft Cover (More prone to wear and tear.)
✅ Advantage: EcoSpa E6 (A built-in hard cover is a huge value-add for long-term protection.)

5. Seating & Comfort (Important for Relaxation & Experience)

EcoSpa E6: 6 Seats
DreamMaker 730L: Lounger + 5 Seats
✅ Advantage: DreamMaker 730L (More luxurious seating, but depends on customer preference.)

6. Water Capacity & Depth (Relevant for Comfort & Size Preference)

EcoSpa E6: 315 gallons
DreamMaker 730L: 354 gallons
✅ Advantage: DreamMaker 730L (Slightly more water capacity, but not a huge difference.)

7. Jet System & Pump Power (Important for Hydrotherapy Buyers)

EcoSpa E6: 30 Jets, 4HP Pump
DreamMaker 730L: 30 Jets, 3HP Pump
✅ Advantage: EcoSpa E6 (Stronger pump for better water pressure and massage.)

8. Warranty & Lifespan (Critical for Buyers Concerned with Value)

EcoSpa E6: Lifetime Shell Warranty
DreamMaker 730L: 5-Year Shell Warranty
✅ Advantage: EcoSpa E6 (Longer warranty is a major trust factor for buyers.)

What’s Most Relevant to Customers?

✅ Durability & Build Quality → EcoSpa E6 wins with HDPE construction .
✅ Energy Efficiency & Insulation → EcoSpa E6's hard cover and insulation save money.
✅ Maintenance & Protection → EcoSpa E6’s built-in hard cover is a major selling point.
✅ Hydrotherapy Power → EcoSpa E6 has a stronger pump for better massage.
✅ Warranty & Longevity → Lifetime shell warranty makes EcoSpa a safer investment.

Final Take: Which One is Stronger and More Durable?

EcoSpa E6 is the clear winner for customers looking for ultra-durability, insulation, and low maintenance . The DreamMaker 730L offers more seats and slightly more water capacity , but it doesn’t match the HDPE shell, stronger pump, or hard cover of the E6.

See the EcoSpa E6 in Person!

To learn more or start the process of securing your very own EcoSpa , come down to the Edmonton RV Show this weekend from February 6 - 9 .

Show Hours:

Thursday, Feb 6 – 12 PM to 8 PM
Friday, Feb 7 – 12 PM to 8 PM
Saturday, Feb 8 – 10 AM to 8 PM
Sunday, Feb 9 – 10 AM to 5 PM

We’ll see you there!

5 Tips for Cheaper Winter Soaks

Mon, 16 Dec 2024 16:25:30 GMT

Getting the most out of your spa during the chilly months!

Owning a hot tub is a fantastic way to relax and enjoy health benefits all year round. However, the cost of keeping your spa warm during the winter can be a concern. While we've previously covered the importance of maximizing the R-value of your spa, here are five practical tips to help you reduce operational costs this winter without compromising your cozy soaks.

1. Lower the Heating Temperature

Your hot tub's heater only consumes energy when it’s actively heating the water. To reduce how often it runs, consider lowering your spa’s temperature by a few degrees during the winter. A small adjustment can lead to noticeable savings over time.

However, be cautious with Eco settings that significantly reduce the water temperature (e.g., lowering it more than 10°F). While it may seem like a good idea, reheating the water from an Eco setting (like 85°F) to your usual soaking temperature (around 102°F) often consumes more energy than maintaining a consistent temperature. Keeping the water at a steady temperature, even if slightly cooler, is typically more efficient.

2. Use a Floating Thermal Blanket

A floating thermal blanket, often made from bubble-wrap-like material, can be a game-changer. It sits directly on the water’s surface and helps retain heat by minimizing the air space above the water where heat loss occurs. This reduces the thermal bridging effect, where heat escapes through small gaps, like the seams and seals of your spa cover.

Adding a thermal blanket complements your insulated spa cover by trapping heat more effectively, preventing it from escaping into the cold winter air. It’s a simple and affordable solution to cut down on energy use.

3. Close Off Air Valves

Most hot tubs have venturi air valves that mix air into the water jets. While these valves can enhance water pressure for massages, they can also introduce cold outside air into the spa water. This isn't a big deal during a 15-minute soak but can be a significant energy drain if left open during filtration cycles, which often run for hours during the coldest parts of the day.

To save energy, close these air valves after each use, especially during the winter months. You’ll notice fewer bubbles when the valves are closed, and your spa will retain heat more efficiently.

4. Soak With Half the Cover Open

If you’re soaking solo or with just one other person, consider only opening half of your hot tub cover. This helps retain heat on the unused side of the spa and minimizes overall heat loss.

Important Safety Note: Never swim under the enclosed half of the cover. Use this tip responsibly and ensure safety, especially if children are around.

5. Minimize “In-and-Out” Activities

As fun as it may be to jump into a snowbank and then back into the hot tub, this activity can wreak havoc on your energy bill. Each time you do this, you introduce cold air and ice-cold water into the spa, forcing the heater to work overtime to restore the temperature. Prolonged periods with the cover off only compound the problem.

If saving energy is your goal, limit these activities to special occasions and focus on keeping the tub covered and warm during your soaks.

Final Thoughts on Winterizing Your Spa

Some spa owners might consider winterizing their hot tub to save on operational costs, but this process isn’t as simple as winterizing an RV. Hot tubs have complex plumbing systems with multiple lines running through manifolds and behind seats, making it difficult to ensure all areas are properly filled with antifreeze. Improper winterization can lead to significant issues, such as frozen pipes, when you reopen the spa in the spring.

Given the relatively low cost of operating modern hot tubs and the challenges of winterization, we generally recommend keeping your spa running during the winter months. If you’ll be away for an extended period and have a warm place to store your spa, winterizing might make sense—but for most owners, enjoying warm soaks throughout the winter is well worth the effort.

Enjoy Your Winter Soaks

We hope these tips help you make your winter hot tubbing as cost-effective as possible. And remember, while saving energy is important, some moments—like watching the kids enjoy the snow or sharing a cozy soak with family—are priceless. Cheers to staying warm and relaxed this winter!

Salt Water Hot Tubs: The Real Pros and Cons

Thu, 12 Dec 2024 19:01:19 GMT

Enough Back and Forth, What's the Straight Facts?

Saltwater Hot Tubs: The Real Pros and Cons

Saltwater hot tubs are a hot topic—some hail them as the ultimate low-maintenance solution, while others decry them as nothing more than chlorine in disguise. Dealers may paint salt systems as a magic bullet: no more messy test strips, no chlorine odor, and minimal effort. On the flip side, critics warn, “Salt is just another way to add chlorine to your water!” But who’s right?

The truth lies somewhere in between. Let’s separate fact from fiction by exploring the following key points:

Sanitizer levels vs. total chemical use
Maintenance demands over time
Overall costs and value

We’ll also provide practical recommendations to help you decide if a saltwater system is the right choice for your

spa.

What You’re Really Using: Sanitizer vs. Total Chemicals

Salt systems are chlorine generators. Yes, they use salt to create chlorine, but they’re designed to maintain a steady sanitizer level. This stability eliminates the extreme peaks and valleys seen with traditional floating dispensers or chlorine pucks. In a conventional setup, you might start the week with chlorine levels around 5 ppm, only to end the week at 1-3 ppm. Salt systems, on the other hand, typically hold steady around 3 ppm, which can be adjusted for usage.

That said, salt systems don’t eliminate chemicals entirely. Balancing alkalinity, pH, and oxidation-reduction potential (ORP) is still necessary. Plus, the salt itself can push up pH levels, requiring additional adjustments. If you’re dreaming of a “natural ocean experience,” you may need to temper your expectations.

The bottom line: Salt systems may reduce sanitizer use slightly compared to old-school setups, but they require the same overall chemical balancing effort as modern, non-salt spas. The real advantage is consistent water quality with less weekly micromanagement.

Maintenance: Weekly vs. Seasonal Tasks

All hot tubs require some level of upkeep. With salt systems, you trade more frequent chemical adjustments for occasional in-depth maintenance. Here’s what to expect:

Salt Systems

Weekly : Test and adjust pH and alkalinity
Seasonal : Clean the anode, add salt, and ensure system functionality

Traditional Systems

Weekly : Add chlorine tablets, shock the water, and test/adjust pH and alkalinity
Seasonal : Minimal additional tasks, mainly water replacement

Salt systems offer time savings on a weekly basis but come with a more significant seasonal workload. If you prefer fewer hands-on tasks week-to-week, salt systems may be worth the tradeoff.

What’s the Cost? Salt vs. Traditional Systems

Cost is a major consideration for any hot tub owner. Here’s how salt systems and traditional methods compare:

Salt Systems

Upfront cost : $250 to $1,500 for a conversion kit
Salt cost : $10/kg, with an initial fill requiring 3 kg and 0.225 kg for seasonal additions

Annual costs depend heavily on the system’s durability:

Cheap system, lasting long : $72.47/year
Cheap system, breaking early : $120.09/year
High-quality system, lasting long : $251.04/year
Overpriced, unreliable system : $536.75/year

The biggest takeaway? Avoid overpriced systems, and don’t hesitate to question the value of premium offerings. Even if a cheaper system needs occasional replacement, it can still be more cost-effective than some “state-of-the-art” options.

Traditional Systems

Chlorine tablets : $55.64/year (at $0.52 per tablet)
Shock treatments : $3/year

Annual cost: ~$60

While traditional systems are the clear winner on cost, they’re far more time-intensive. Weekly maintenance could total 26 hours per year, compared to just 4 hours for salt systems—mainly for seasonal tasks like replenishing salt.

Which System Is Right for You?

Salt systems aren’t the cheapest option, but they save time and provide more consistent water quality. Traditional systems are budget-friendly but require more hands-on attention. Here’s how to decide:

If cost is your top priority : Stick with traditional methods.
If convenience matters most : Invest in a reliable salt system (but steer clear of overpriced models).

Ultimately, either system can deliver great results when maintained properly. Consider your budget, lifestyle, and willingness to invest time or money, and you’ll find the system that best suits your needs.

The Hot Tub Paradox

Sat, 07 Dec 2024 18:13:38 GMT

You Don't Need a Hot Tub

That's Right...

You don’t need a hot tub—nobody does. You’ve made it this far without one, and life will go on if you never own one. But if that’s true, why are more Canadians investing in hot tubs year after year?

Some might point to the COVID-19 pandemic as a catalyst, but the steady rise in hot tub sales began well before that, and trends for 2023–2024 show another increase. Are people suddenly flush with disposable income? Unlikely—most households are grappling with inflation, rising costs, and stagnant wages. At the same time, health concerns such as arthritis, diabetes, anxiety, high blood pressure, and chronic stress are more prevalent than ever.

So what’s driving this ongoing demand?

Hot tubs have evolved beyond being perceived as luxury toys for the wealthy. More people now recognize that a hot tub is a valuable investment in health and well-being . Dozens of studies demonstrate that regular use of a home spa can positively impact various health issues, including those mentioned above.

Science-Backed Benefits

Take joint pain, for example. Studies show that regular hot tubbing can reduce joint pain by 26% and stiffness by 37% , providing meaningful relief for those with arthritis and related conditions. The combination of warm water, buoyancy, and hydrotherapy jets creates a therapeutic environment that supports pain management and improves mobility.

Addressing Concerns

Understandably, concerns about cost and maintenance give pause to many potential buyers. "I’ve heard hot tubs are difficult to maintain," you might say. "And what about the impact on my energy bill?"

These are valid questions, and while modern hot tubs are designed to simplify upkeep and operate efficiently, skepticism is fair—manufacturers have made these claims for decades.

But here’s the truth: owning a spa may not be effortless, but it’s worth it . A little effort in maintenance goes a long way, much like stretching or exercising regularly to stay healthy. And yes, there are some associated costs, but these pale in comparison to the savings on physiotherapy, pain medications, and sleep aids—not to mention the priceless benefit of improved quality of life.

Why It’s Worth It

When I read letters from customers over the years, the impact of hot tubs becomes abundantly clear. For those held back by arthritis, a spa can feel like a new lease on life. It’s not just about managing pain—it’s about rediscovering joy, comfort, and mobility.

Hot tubs can also promote better sleep, help lower blood pressure, and alleviate stress, creating a foundation for holistic health. And while no product can eliminate every discomfort, a hot tub offers tangible, consistent benefits that extend far beyond the initial investment.

Take the Next Step

If you’re looking for a meaningful way to enhance your health and happiness, a hot tub might just be the answer. While there will be minor upkeep, the rewards—both physical and mental—make it a worthwhile addition to your lifestyle.

Ready to explore your options? Contact us today to discover which spa fits your needs and take the first step toward a healthier, more enjoyable life!

Building a Rock-Solid Hot Tub Base

Wed, 04 Dec 2024 20:14:13 GMT

Simple Isn't Always Easy

Building a Rock-Solid Base for Your Hot Tub

Congratulations! Whether you’ve recently purchased your hot tub or are planning to get one soon, you’re making a fantastic investment in your health and relaxation. But here’s an important question:

How will you support a hot tub that could weigh up to 8,500 pounds when filled with water and people?

The good news? You don’t need to pour concrete. A gravel pad is an excellent and cost-effective solution. Gravel pads are commonly used to support structures weighing over 15,000 pounds, so your hot tub will be well within its capacity.

With at least 4 inches of gravel and an optional stabilization blanket under the spa, your base will be ready to handle the weight. Follow this step-by-step guide to build a long-lasting and sturdy hot tub foundation.

Materials You’ll Need

To build a reliable base, gather the following materials:

Treated 4 x 6 posts (rated for ground contact)
¾-inch crushed clean stone (gravel)
Woven stabilization fabric (Class 3 rating)
½-inch rebar stakes
4-inch exterior screws

Step 1: Site Preparation

Mark the area: Outline where the hot tub will sit. Ensure the base is large enough so the spa rests entirely on the gravel, not on the wooden frame.
Clear the ground: Remove topsoil and vegetation.
Check for slope: Identify any ground slopes and account for them when leveling the base.

Step 2: Build the Frame

Position the posts: Place the treated 4 x 6 posts along the edges of your marked area.
Level the frame: On sloped ground, stack and secure posts on the lower side to create a flat, level surface.
Secure the frame: Use 4-inch exterior screws to connect the posts. Reinforce the corners by drilling through and inserting ½-inch rebar stakes into the ground.

Step 3: Lay the Stabilization Fabric

Spread woven stabilization fabric across the cleared area. This fabric helps prevent the gravel from sinking into the soil over time and ensures your base remains sturdy.

Step 4: Add Gravel

Fill with gravel: Spread ¾-inch crushed clean stone across the area. Ensure there’s at least 4 inches of gravel under the entire spa footprint.
Compensate for slopes: When purchasing gravel, account for extra material needed to correct any uneven ground.
Level and compact: Use a tamper or plate compactor to flatten the gravel evenly.

Final Steps

With these steps complete, your gravel pad is ready to support your hot tub for years to come. Regularly inspect the base for settling or shifting and replenish gravel as needed to maintain its integrity.

By following this guide, you’ll create a durable and cost-effective foundation, ensuring your hot tub remains safe and secure. Enjoy your new spa experience knowing it’s built on a solid base!

If you'd like to have your hot tub base constructed for you and you're in Alberta contact us today for a free quote!

Water Care Quick Guide

Wed, 20 Nov 2024 19:09:28 GMT

Quick and dirty answers to common water issues.

Water Care Quick Fix Guide

Want to get your water back in order? Don’t want to swim through pages of chemistry?

My Quick Fix Guide has you covered.

We’ll solve green, yellow and brown water. Eliminate smells, scale, and other build ups. Destroy foam and even deal with a spa that’s been peed in!

Green Water

Green water can be caused by a few things. Algae or minerals present in the water. Before you begin, try to decide what the cause could be. Most of the time you’ll be dealing with algae. If your home uses copper pipes, your city has high copper or manganese levels generally, or you’re filling from a well containing those elements then minerals could be the culprit.

Algae

Algae begins to grow when sanitizer levels dip too low for too long. Most users will report that they’ve kept adding the same amount of sanitizer as always. This may be true but if the bather load has been higher than usual or if the spa is getting older then what once was an effective dose can be a little on the low side.

To fix your algae problem, start by scrubbing down the spa and the underside of the cover to loosen as much algae as possible. Next add a large dose of sanitizer to kill what is in the tub. Start with 4 times your usual dose. Leave the cover off the spa for 15-20 mins while the jets run to mix the sanitizer into the water. The spa may begin to foam so have Foam Away on hand when starting up the jets.

After the jets are finished running close the spa for the night. In the morning you’ll be left with a cloudy but clean spa. There should no longer be any green present. If the algae has persisted then repeat step 1 with another dose of sanitizer.

Now add a large dose of non-chlorinated shock to burn out the waste materials collected by the sanitizer. Again allow the jets to cycle for 15-20 mins with the cover open. We want to burn out waste, not trap it under the cover. Your spa should now be mostly clear. To finish up remove the filters and clean in a filter wash solution. This will both remove any gunk collected by the filters as well as kill anything lingering within the pleats.

Balance water and add fresh sanitizer to return the spa to usual levels.

The above procedure is the basis for most hot tub rescue missions so become familiar with it.

Minerals

A secondary cause of green water minerals are handled slightly differently. You can prevent colour change caused by minerals in the future by investing in a pre-filter for the end of your fill hose. Filters come in a variety of options but you’ll want to primarily look to stop copper and manganese to reduce the green.

But what about the fix?

In order to fix the green oxidised minerals they must be sequestered. Add a sequestering agent to the spa. This won’t remove the minerals but will make them inert. Sequestering agents can also be added upon filling to help prevent the green colour in the future.

Yellow Water

Yellow like green water can have a variety of causes. In fact; algae, pollen, iron, bromine level/chlorine level, and oils could all lead to a yellow tub.

Algae

Algae will be the least common cause of yellow water. If none of the other explanations seem to fit your situation then fall back on the treatment recommended for algae in the Green Water section.

Pollen

During spring while the plants are all dancing pollen can be a common culprit. Pollen will resemble a light sticky dust. It will cover the shell of the spa, float on the water's surface, and get stuck on the outside of the cover. To deal with pollen simply wipe it away with a wet microfiber cloth and rinse your filters more frequently while the pollen is present.

Iron

Similar to copper and manganese, iron will oxidise when shocked. Instead of green iron will turn yellow. If you're filling from a source with known high levels of iron such as a well then please see the instructions on sequestering located in the Green Water section.

Bromine / Chlorine Level

Both bromine and chlorine will turn spa water yellow when in too high of concentrations. To confirm the level simply test the spa using your preferred testing method. If the level of sanitizer is especially high simply leave the cover off the spa for a few hours. Start the pumps initially but don’t run the pumps for the entire time. One cycle is perfect.

Oils

If the yellow is glistening on top of the spa like gasoline and is concentrated in the filters then you’re likely dealing with body oils. We all sweat while in the spa and sanitizers don’t break down oils. You can deal with the oil by cleaning your filters thoroughly and increasing the duration of your filter cycles. Excess oils can come from an unexpected hot tub party or an especially hot day.

If you find that your filter duration is maxed out and you’re regularly dealing with oils you can also look at other solutions. Enzymes eat up the oils in the spa. They come in both liquid and stick form and work continually for 4-9 months depending on the particular product.

The famous absorbent options are also classic among ho tub owners. These are sponge like devices that sit in the spa and absorb the excess oil. Both absorbent solutions and enzymes will deal with excess oils long term and promote more efficient sanitizer use in all spas.

Brown Water

Brown water is caused by minerals or pollutants.

Minerals

Iron dioxide is usually the problem and creates a brown scum resulting in a tub that looks like tea. To deal with brown water caused by iron see the instructions on minerals under the Green Water section.

Pollutants

High levels of pollutants in either the source water or the air can get into your spa water. If filling your spa after a heavy rain the sediment disturbed by the rain can get into your spa. Extreme smog can also turn hot tub water a dirty brown. When this happens it’s time to drain and refill.

If the source is polluted, wait a day or two or use a pre filter on your hose to prevent the same problems from happening again.

Smells

When the spas fragrance turns funky you’ll need to up the sanitizer. There are two causes of funk in a tub but thankfully both can be dealt with in the same manner.

Chlorine smell is caused by not enough sanitizer being present in the water. Chlorine itself is odourless and what you’re smelling is actually bacteria that is rotting too slowly. This usually causes a vicious cycle for new spa owners. They smell chlorine, reduce the dose they’re adding, and then the problem gets worse!

Treat with a sanitizer and shock like in dealing with Algae in the Green Water section. If the smell becomes common then up your regular dose of sanitizer going forward.

The other smells are a general wet dog must. These are associated with algae and bacteria living in the spa. You will deal with this exactly the same way. Follow the sanitize and shock protocol from dealing with Algae in the Green Water section. If the smell becomes common, up your usual sanitizer dose going forward.

Scale

When calcium precipitates on the surfaces in your spa, scale is formed. Calcium cannot be removed or neutralised in your spa. Hard water isn’t bad for the tub though. In fact, when water has no calcium present the plastics can leach calcium into the water making the components brittle. When initially filling your spa you might even add Calcium Booster to ensure there is a bank of calcium present.

When you notice excessive scale developing on the spa surfaces begin by wiping it back into the water with a microfiber cloth. Then test your pH with your preferred method and get the pH balanced. Calcium can only form when the waters pH is too high so correcting the pH will eventually solve the scale issue.

If the water is very old calcium can build up as water evaporates but the calcium remains behind. If the scale becomes unmanageable then it may be time to drain and refill your spa.

Cloudy Water

Funny enough high pH and low pH can both result in cloudy water. This makes the fix easy. Test your pH and get it back in balance. Other causes of cloud can be contaminants like soaps or silts but these are less common and usually accompanied by foam.

Foamy Water

When a spa starts looking like a bubble bath, blame the surfactants. Surfactants are anything that floats on top of the water and increases the surface tension of the water. New found surface tensions pulls the water together into bubbles creating the foam.

To fix the foam you must either remove or neutralise the surfactants and stop the cause. If you suspect that the surfactants are from some soaps then removing the suds and remembering to wash your tubbing trunks in water only will suffice.

Remove the foam either with a skimmer or shop vac. If the foam is caused by algae or bacteria build up then proceed with the dealing with Algae treatment from the Green Water section.

Help They Peed in My Pool

Honestly most people are going to drain and refill their spa at this point. Science be damned there is urine in there now. And hey in a tub of a few hundred gallons dilution won’t be much of a solution.

Gross as it may sound, urine is really just some carbon, oxygen and, hydrogen molecules. Chlorine will denature and shock will get it gone. Follow the Algae instructions from the Green Water section

Summary

Thanks for checking out the Quick Fix Guide. If you have any other questions or want more details on certain solutions please comment below and we will keep expanding the communities shared hot tub knowledge

In-Depth Alkalinity and PH for Hot Tub Maintenance

Wed, 20 Nov 2024 17:23:54 GMT

If the basic guide didn't satisfy your need for chemistry then here we go!

In-Depth: Alkalinity and pH in Hot Tub Maintenance

Maintaining proper alkalinity and pH levels is crucial for hot tub water care. These two factors work together to ensure optimal water quality and sanitizer efficiency, providing a safe and comfortable experience for bathers.

Step 1: Understanding and Adjusting Alkalinity

Alkalinity, in the context of hot tubs, refers specifically to the concentration of hydrogen carbonate ions (HCO₃⁻) in the water. These ions act as a buffer, stabilizing pH levels and preventing rapid fluctuations.

Why Alkalinity Matters:

Buffering Capacity : A stable alkalinity level ensures that pH remains balanced, reducing the need for frequent adjustments.

Optimal Range : The ideal alkalinity range is 80–120 ppm . To "lock in" pH stability, aim for the higher end of this range (around 120 ppm ).

Adjusting Alkalinity:

Use a dedicated Alkalinity Booster to raise levels without significantly affecting pH.

If your alkalinity is too low, pH adjustments will be inconsistent, as the water lacks the buffering capacity to stabilize itself. Always address alkalinity first before attempting to adjust pH.

Step 2: Measuring and Adjusting pH

Once alkalinity is within the proper range, you can accurately measure and adjust pH.

What is pH?

pH measures the concentration of hydrogen ions ( H⁺ ) in the water. The pH scale ranges from 0 (acidic) to 14 (basic) , with 7 being neutral. For hot tubs, pH levels influence the effectiveness of chlorine-based sanitizers.

Low pH (acidic water) : Produces more hypochlorous acid (HOCl), improving disinfection but potentially irritating skin.
High pH (basic water) : Produces more hypochlorite ions (OCl⁻), reducing sanitizing power and requiring higher chlorine doses.

Optimal Range:

Maintain a pH of 7.2–7.8 for a balance between effective sanitation and bather comfort.
For maximum sanitizer efficiency, target the lower end of this range ( 7.2–7.4 ).

Tools and Products for Water Balance

Alkalinity Boosters :
Essential for raising alkalinity without altering pH significantly.

pH Plus and pH Minus :

pH Plus : Raises pH.
pH Minus : Lowers pH.

Liquid Test Kits :
Use kits with phenol red and bromothymol blue indicators for accurate pH readings. Phenol red works within the 7–8 range, while bromothymol blue is better for initial testing if water is suspected to be highly acidic.

Measuring and Adjusting pH

Initial Testing :

Use bromothymol blue to test pH if water is suspected to be below 7.
Compare tap water and spa water samples for reference.

Adjusting pH :

Add pH Plus if pH is below 7.2, following the manufacturer’s dosage chart.
Wait 12 hours and retest using phenol red.
If pH exceeds 7.8, use pH Minus to lower it.

Final Thoughts: Linking Alkalinity and pH

Alkalinity acts as the foundation, stabilizing pH and creating a consistent environment for sanitizers to work effectively.
pH directly affects sanitizer efficiency, with hypochlorous acid being most effective in slightly acidic water (7.2–7.4).

By addressing alkalinity first and maintaining pH within the optimal range, you ensure your hot tub remains clean, comfortable, and ready for use.

Stay Tuned!

Check back soon for our Quick Fix Guide , which will cover practical steps for troubleshooting common hot tub water issues.

In Depth Look At Chlorine Based Sanitizers

Tue, 19 Nov 2024 07:37:49 GMT

Chlorine isn't just chlorine!

How Does Chlorination Work?

Chlorine-based products react with water to produce hypochlorous acid (HOCl) and hypochlorite ions (OCl⁻), which act as disinfectants.

Reaction: Chlorine Compound+H2O→HOCl+OCl−Chlorine Compound + H_2O → HOCl + OCl⁻Chlorine Compound+H2O→HOCl+OCl−

These disinfectants move through the water, targeting pathogens. They disrupt cell membranes, interfere with respiration, and damage DNA, ultimately killing harmful microorganisms. Among these, hypochlorous acid is the more effective disinfectant.

The balance between hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions is dictated by water pH:

Acidic water (lower pH): Produces more hypochlorous acid but may be harsher on skin and eyes.

Basic water (higher pH): Generates more hypochlorite ions, reducing sanitizer efficacy but being gentler on bathers.

The ideal pH range for hot tubs (7.2–7.8) balances comfort and sanitation. Maintaining this range ensures efficient chlorine use while avoiding unnecessary irritation.

Types of Chlorine-Based Products

Trichlor Tablets

Chemical Name: Trichloroisocyanuric Acid
Features: Stabilized chlorine with high available chlorine content, often used in floaters.
Pros: Slow-dissolving and UV-resistant, making it ideal for outdoor use.
Cons: Adds cyanuric acid (CYA), which can build up and reduce chlorine effectiveness over time. Not recommended for most modern spas and may void warranties.

Dichlor Granules

Chemical Name: Sodium Dichloro-s-Triazinetrione
Features: Quick-dissolving, unstabilized chlorine.
Pros: Ideal for modern spas, avoids excessive CYA buildup, and maintains free chlorine levels effectively.
Cons: Requires frequent dosing and monitoring. Adds sodium to the water, though this is usually manageable.

Calcium Hypochlorite

Features: Granular chlorine often used as a shock treatment.
Pros: Effective as a potent sanitizer; contributes calcium, which can prevent corrosion.
Cons: Can lead to scaling if calcium levels become too high. Difficult to dose in small spas.

Liquid Bleach

Chemical Name: Sodium Hypochlorite
Features: Common household bleach can serve as a sanitizer.
Pros: Readily available and inexpensive.
Cons: Difficult to handle safely in concentrated forms; adds sodium to water, impacting balance.

Saltwater Systems

Mechanism: Converts salt (sodium chloride) into chlorine via electrolysis.
Pros: Provides consistent chlorination, reduces chemical fluctuations, and offers convenience.
Cons: Requires upfront equipment costs and ongoing maintenance. Salt can contribute to water softness but may corrode components over time.

How Much Chlorine Do You Need?

To maintain a sanitized hot tub, a residual chlorine level of 1–3 ppm is recommended. This ensures a sufficient "bank" of free chlorine to combat contaminants.

Initial Dosing: If the water is clean, adding chlorine to reach the desired residual level is straightforward.
Post-Use Adjustment: After use, the chlorine demand increases due to organic matter (e.g., oils, sweat) and requires more sanitizer to restore the residual level.

Tip for New Owners: Start with frequent water testing and dose slightly on the higher side. Chlorine levels up to 5 ppm are safe for soaking, providing a buffer against under-sanitization.

What Kind of Chlorine is Right for You?

For Simplicity: Trichlor tablets work well for older spas or those without manufacturer restrictions.
For Control and Flexibility: Dichlor granules are ideal for most modern spas, offering better control of CYA levels and compatibility with advanced sanitization systems.
For Convenience: Saltwater systems are perfect for those prioritizing ease of maintenance, albeit with higher upfront and periodic costs.
For Shock Treatments: Use calcium hypochlorite sparingly to address water imbalances or as a periodic treatment. I will also use this during initial fills to add a bit of calcium to water that is lacking to prevent leaching.

By understanding the options available and tailoring your sanitizer choice to your spa’s setup and maintenance preferences, you can ensure a clean, safe, and enjoyable hot tub experience.

Hot Tub Chemistry Basics

Mon, 18 Nov 2024 22:18:08 GMT

The A , B, C'S of Water Chemistry

A is for Alkalinity

Alkalinity in a hot tub refers to your waters ability to buffer pH changes. Put simply , when your alkalinity gets too low it will become unstable. When the alkalinity gets too high , the water can become locked out of balance.

When balancing water start by establishing an alkalinity reading of

80 - 120

You can use your pH Plus and pH minus products to slowly adjust your alkalinity into range. Follow the products labels for your particular pH products.

B is for Balance pH

pH describes how acidic your hot tub water is. When your water is too acidic it can irritate our skin. Water that becomes to basic won't allow your sanitizer to function properly. In other words a spa might have sanitizer added to it but if the pH is off then the sanitizer will not clean the spa.

Once alkalinity is established use your pH adjusters to achieve a balance of

7.2 - 7.8

Note that it can be a common to find you're initially using pH Plus to correct alkalinity and then immediately using pH down to balance the pH. This can seem counter productive but the chemicals are reacting differently depending on the state of the waters balance. Check out the In-Depth Guide to pH for more details.

C is for Chlorine

Don't get me wrong. Feel free to use your preferred sanitizer. Trichlor, dichlor, bromine, and even peroxide, can be used as sanitizers. The key to remember is that the sanitizer is the last thing we add. The water is stable and balanced and is now ready to activate our sanitizer to let it do it's job.

While sanitizers will all have slightly different instructions a good rule of thumb for your spa is a sanitizer level of

3 - 5 ppm with chlorine based systems or 5-7 ppm for bromine based systems

S is for Shock

Shock here refers to non chlorinated oxidizing treatment. Sanitizers work by binging to the cell wall of the bacteria and denaturing that cell. What remains are molecules made of the combined sanitizer/bacteria pieces. If these build up in the spa you will not allow your sanitizer to be effective.

The day before you plan to balance and sanitize your water and after you're done using the spa for the evening add your shock treatment to clear out the old junk that your sanitizer has collected the week before.

After adding shock make sure to leave your cover open with the jets running for 10 - 20 mins to allow the oxidized wastes to burn off.

Summary

Hot tub chemistry is simple. Balance your alkalinity to create stable water. Balance your pH to allow proper sanitizer activation. Chlorinate your spa to keep it clean and clear. Shock the tub before next balance and sanitize sequence.

Balance and sanitize water at least once a week to maintain clean, clear, healthy water.

HDPE vs Fiberglass for Hot Tubs

Wed, 23 Oct 2024 17:59:40 GMT

Better Spas Start With Better Materials

I'm a convert. Not religiously, but converted nonetheless. I've been shown the light o f high density polyethylene.

A New Way Forward

High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) is an exciting new material for spa construction.

Fiberglass is the traditional building material for hot tubs. However, when it comes to durability, HDPE often stands out. Here's an in-depth look at why HDPE outperforms fiberglass in hot tubs:

Impact Resistance

Hot tubs experience frequent stress. Bathers moving, water sloshing, and kids jumping all add extra forces.

HDPE exhibits superior impact resistance compared to fiberglass. This makes it perfectly suited to deal with the dynamic stressors in a spa.

Chemical Resistance

Both HDPE and fiberglass offer commendable chemical resistance; however, HDPE has an edge in resisting a broader range of chemicals, including acids, alkalis, and solvents.

Spa water sees the gamut of chemicals. Regular maintenance, drain and fills, and cleansers can all be harsh. It's broader range of chemical resistance makes HDPE more resilient over time.

Bend Don't Break

HDPE's flexibility allows it to withstand stress and pressure fluctuations better than the more rigid fiberglass. This flexibility reduces the likelihood of material fatigue and failure over time. This makes HDPE spas safer to transport and easier to move seasonally.

UV Resistance and Weatherability

HDPE is highly resistant to UV radiation and adverse weather conditions, ensuring longevity in outdoor applications without significant degradation. Fiberglass can suffer from UV exposure over time, leading to reduced structural integrity.

Spas made from HDPE stay strong and don't fade in the sun.

Maintenance and Cost-Effectiveness

HDPE hot tubs are virtually maintenance-free due to their resistance to corrosion, rust, and biological growth. In contrast, fiberglass may require regular maintenance, including inspections and potential repairs, to address issues like cracking or delamination. Additionally, HDPE is generally more cost-effective, both in terms of initial material costs and long-term maintenance expenses.

Environmental Considerations

HDPE is fully recyclable, contributing to environmental sustainability. While fiberglass is also recyclable, the process is more complex, and the material can release harmful substances during manufacturing and disposal.

Summing Up

In summary, while both HDPE and fiberglass have their merits, HDPE's superior durability, impact resistance, chemical resistance, and cost-effectiveness make it a superior choice for spas.

How Long Does it Really Take to Keep a Hot Tub Clean?

Wed, 11 Sep 2024 21:28:58 GMT

See below to know about the general maintenance before taking the plunge

If you've been thinking about getting a hot tub then you've no doubt considered the maintenance schedule. While spa care technology continues to improve most traditional spas still require a fair amount of work. We believe that this amount of work is worth it for the benefits one receives from a spa but it should still be clear to the aspiring tubber what they have in store.

On average, maintaining a hot tub takes around 50–70 hours per year. Here's a breakdown:

Regular tasks (weekly or biweekly):

Testing and adjusting chemicals (10-15 minutes per session)
Cleaning filters (10-30 minutes per session)

Estimated annual time: 20–30 hours
Deep cleaning and draining (every 3-4 months):

Draining, cleaning the tub, and refilling (4-6 hours per session)

Estimated annual time: 12–18 hours
Occasional tasks:

Cover cleaning, hardware checks, or troubleshooting

Estimated annual time: 10–20 hours

It depends on usage, environment, and maintenance habits, but these figures provide a good estimates to get you started.

As you can see most individual tasks don't take that long but after awhile they do start to add up. In order to make your life as easy as possible you'll want to keep up with your maintenance regularly. If you never let your tub get out of control it will always be a breeze to take care of it.

If you'd like to never clean your own hot tub again contact us today and ask about our weekly or bi-weekly deluxe cleaning programs.

The Power (and Limitations) of Ozone

Fri, 30 Aug 2024 12:57:40 GMT

What is it and what can it do for you?

Ozone is oxygen. When you add an extra atom of oxygen to the standard O2 molecule you get ozone. Ozone can be produced naturally or commercially. After a thunderstorm the fresh rain smell is the ozone produced by the lightning strikes. On the commercial side most bottled water is now sanitized with ozone. But how does it clean?

That extra oxygen atom is super reactive. Oxygen is already a powerful oxidizing agent but ozone is a super oxidizer! Compared to chlorine ozone is twice as effective at sanitizing. This means that an ozonator can definitely help you keep your spa clean and replace some of the other sanitizer you're using. There are still limits on what ozone can do.

According to the The International Bottled Water Association (IBWA) , water requires 1 - 2 ppm (mg/L) for 4- 10 minutes. Depending on the style of ozonator you can expect between 10 - 90 mg/hr of ozonation. To see how much ozone you're getting simply multiply your units output by the length of your filter cycle. For example a 90mg/L running for a typical 4 hour filter cycle makes about 360mg of ozone.

What does this mean for your spa? A typical 7'x7' or 8'x8' hot tub will be between approximately 1,155L and 1,495L. The best ozonators currently available on the market today can produce 2,160mg of ozone if left to run for 24 hours. It's therefore possible to have a hot tub run completely on ozone. Keep in mind this only covers the sanitizer portion of the water care and you will still need to deal with oils and physical waste in your spa.

Is this 24hr filtration realistic for most people? Not at all. The type of low speed utilized in most hot tubs is not designed to run that much and 24hr circulation pumps don't flow the water fast enough to sanitize before the ozone denatures back into oxygen. Ozone is a great addition to a spa but it has real limits when dealing with larger spas. If your spa is small, say around 800L or less, ozone can realistically solve your sanitizer with normal albeit extended filter cycles of 8-10 hours total filtration.

For more information on small, ozone only spas contact us today keyword "Ozone."

Hot Tub Land

Hot Tub University Showdown

1. Dealer

2. Shell Construction

3. Parts

4. Plumbing

5. Insulation

Conclusion

Is Hot Water Just a Bunch of Hot Air?

How to Unlock the Real Recovery Power of Your Hot Tub

Why We Hurt in the First Place

What a Hot Tub Can Do

The Missing Link: Stretching

Hot Tub + Stretch = Game Changer

Want a Framework? Try This.

Final Thoughts: It’s Not Magic. It’s Science.

Testing For Ozone

Is Your Ozonator Actually On?

Ozone as an Oxidizer vs. Sanitizer

Can You Trust the Bubbles?

Three Ways to Test Ozone Levels

1. Ozone Test Strips

2. ORP Testing (Oxidation-Reduction Potential)

3. ATP Testing: The Gold Standard

When Is Testing Worth It?

Final Thought

Making Sense of the Dollars

How Much Will a Hot Tub Cost to Operate?

Quick and Dirty Estimates for the Time-Conscious

In-Depth Estimates

Heating: Putting the "Hot" in Hot Tub

Filtration: Keeping It Clean

Usage: Actually Enjoying the Thing

Summing Up: What’s the Damage?

For the Lazy Anoraks

Plug-and-Play or No Way?

110V vs. 220V – Which One Actually Makes Sense?

Small Pumps?

220V Setup Costs More

Winter Performance – Negligible Difference

Jet Pressure – 110V Wins for Power

Heat-Up Time – Longer but Efficient

Running Costs – Marginal Differences

Final Verdict

Process is not the Product

Competitor Comparison : Ecospas vs Dreammaker

Head-to-Head Comparison: EcoSpa E6 vs. DreamMaker 730L

1. Shell & Build Quality (Most Relevant for Durability-Focused Buyers)

2. Weight & Structural Integrity (Relevant for Longevity & Strength)

3. Insulation & Energy Efficiency (Highly Relevant for Cost-Conscious Buyers)

4. Cover & Protection (Important for Maintenance & Durability)

5. Seating & Comfort (Important for Relaxation & Experience)

6. Water Capacity & Depth (Relevant for Comfort & Size Preference)

7. Jet System & Pump Power (Important for Hydrotherapy Buyers)

8. Warranty & Lifespan (Critical for Buyers Concerned with Value)

What’s Most Relevant to Customers?

Final Take: Which One is Stronger and More Durable?

See the EcoSpa E6 in Person!

Show Hours:

5 Tips for Cheaper Winter Soaks

Getting the most out of your spa during the chilly months!

1. Lower the Heating Temperature

2. Use a Floating Thermal Blanket

3. Close Off Air Valves

4. Soak With Half the Cover Open

5. Minimize “In-and-Out” Activities

Final Thoughts on Winterizing Your Spa

Enjoy Your Winter Soaks

﻿

Salt Water Hot Tubs: The Real Pros and Cons

Enough Back and Forth, What's the Straight Facts?

Saltwater Hot Tubs: The Real Pros and Cons

What You’re Really Using: Sanitizer vs. Total Chemicals

Maintenance: Weekly vs. Seasonal Tasks

Salt Systems

Traditional Systems

What’s the Cost? Salt vs. Traditional Systems

Salt Systems

Traditional Systems

Which System Is Right for You?